3D Printing - Tips & Tricks

Find recommended starting settings, practical slicer tutorials, and techniques for printing and assembling your Paragami 3D wall art. Learn how to prepare your files, organise print jobs, choose print orientations, and achieve the finish you want.

The following settings are a starting point for printing Paragami blocks. The optimal settings depend on the design, individual block geometry, printer, slicer, filament and desired finish.

  • Starting settings

    • Layer height: 0.2–0.3 mm
    • Perimeters: 2–3
    • Infill: 0–5% (Rectilinear)
    • Bottom solid layers: 2
    • Top solid layers: 3
  • Additional slicer settings

    Depending on the model and your slicer, these settings may help improve print quality:

    • Extra perimeters if needed
    • Minimum shell thickness
    • Detect thin walls

    The availability and behaviour of these options differ between slicers, so test them with your own printer and model.

  • Adjust settings to suit the geometry

    Some Paragami blocks have steeply inclined surfaces or very gradual slopes. These shapes may require additional perimeters or shell-thickness adjustments to maintain the desired wall thickness and print quality.

  • Adjust settings to suit your desired finish

    Your settings also depend on how you plan to finish the artwork. If you intend to post-process the surface, for example by applying a coloured spray coating, a larger layer height may be acceptable and can reduce printing time.

    Choose settings based on the finish you want to achieve and the capabilities of your printer.

What is included in your download?

Wondering what you receive when you purchase a Paragami 3D Model? See how the download package is organised and learn what each file and model version is used for.

EXPLORE THE 3D MODEL DOWNLOAD PACKAGE

01 / PLAIN vs. NUMBERED BLOCKS 

What's the difference between the Plain and Numbered versions? 

The 3D Model download package contains two versions of the model: Plain and Numbered. The geometry is almost identical; the difference is how the block numbers are represented.

PLAIN

The blocks have flat, unnumbered bases. If you choose this version, you'll need to identify or mark the blocks yourself during assembly.

NUMBERED

The block numbers are incorporated into the geometry of the bases. When you slice the model, the numbers appear on the base of each block, making the blocks easier to identify and position during assembly.

The Numbered blocks take slightly longer to print because of the additional details.

Both versions identify the block number and colour in the file name. The included PDF layout guide shows where each block belongs in the finished artwork.

02 / ESTIMATE PRINT TIME AND MATERIAL USE

How to estimate the printing time and material required for your artwork

Printing time and material consumption depend on your printer, filament, model size, slicer settings and print setup.

To estimate the entire artwork at 100% scale, import the Whole Model file into your slicer. Temporarily enlarge the virtual build plate in Printer Settings so the complete artwork fits. This allows you to calculate the estimated printing time and material usage, even if the artwork exceeds your physical build plate.

Configure your intended print settings, slice the model, and check the estimates.

03 / MULTIMATERIAL PRINTER

How to print a five-colour Paragami design

This tutorial uses PrusaSlicer with a Prusa multimaterial setup.

  1. Select your printer. Choose your multimaterial printer in PrusaSlicer.
  2. Import the colour groups. Select all five colour-group STL files and drag them into the slicer. The file names identify the colour groups.
  3. Keep the model aligned. When prompted, confirm that the files belong to the same multicolour model. This preserves their relative positions.
  4. Adjust the scale if needed. Scale the complete artwork to fit your build plate.
  5. Set up your print. Assign the appropriate filament to each colour group, check the sliced preview, and prepare the print.

Watch the video tutorial ➜

04 / PRINT-BED ARRANGEMENT

How to print a five-colour Paragami design

You can prepare separate print jobs in two ways: using Colour Group STL files or Individual Block files.

OPTION 1 — COLOUR GROUP STL FILES

  1. Import the first Colour Group STL file into your slicer.
  2. Use Split to Objects to separate the model into individual blocks.
  3. Move the model away from the print bed. Hold Shift and select the blocks you want to print in the first batch, choosing only those that fit on the bed.
  4. Slice the selected blocks and save the G-code for the first batch.
  5. Return to the model view and move another group of blocks onto the print bed. Prepare and save the next G-code file.
  6. Repeat until all blocks in that colour group have been prepared for printing.
  7. Repeat the process for the remaining Colour Group STL files.

OPTION 2 — INDIVIDUAL BLOCK FILES

  1. Open the Blocks folder and select the files for the blocks you want to print in the same colour. The colour is indicated in each file name.
  2. Drag the selected files into your slicer.
  3. Use Arrange to organise the blocks automatically on the print bed.
  4. Check the arrangement, slice the model, and save the G-code.
  5. Repeat with the remaining blocks and colours.

Watch the video tutorial ➜

05 / UPSIDE-DOWN PRINTING = FLAT TOPS

How to print blocks upside down for flatter tops

When printing blocks with inclined top surfaces, visible layer stepping can affect the finish. Printing the blocks upside down moves this stepping to the base, helping to achieve a smoother, flatter top surface. 

Use the Place on Face function in your slicer to position each block flat on its top surface. Simply rotating the block 180° is not enough. This orientation moves layer stepping to the base, helping to achieve smoother, flatter top surfaces.

Watch the video tutorial ➜

06 / COLOUR CHANGES: FLAT TOPS

Create contrasting colours to accentuate the tops

When you print blocks with flat tops placed on face (see 05), the top surface is printed first. Use a filament colour change in the first few layers to create a contrasting colour and make the top surfaces pop. Start with one colour, then switch to a contrasting one for the rest of the block.

07 / COLOUR CHANGES AT A SELECTED HEIGHT

Add contrasting colours without turning the blocks upside down 

You don’t have to flip the blocks to use colour changes. Add a classic filament colour change at a selected height, and the rest of the print continues in a contrasting colour.

This works great when you apply it to the entire artwork. You can also apply it to individual blocks. In that case, remember to use the same height for the colour change on every block. Save your settings as a preset, then use Replace with STL to swap in the geometry of another block.

08 / OPEN / HOLLOW BLOCKS

Print hollow blocks for the effect, or upgrade them into an acoustic absorber

You can print the blocks open (hollow) just for the effect. If you want, you can also fill them with foam afterwards (see the extra step below).

1) Drag & drop the individual blocks into your slicer (I’m using PrusaSlicer).

2) You can flip them upside down. Then use the Arrange function to distribute the blocks evenly on the print plate.

3) Select one block, click the Place on Face tool and choose the face you want as the base. The block aligns automatically. Apply this to all the blocks.

4) Print settings:
Infill: 0%
Top solid layers: 2
Bottom solid layers: 0
Perimeters: 2

5) Generate the G-code and print.

Extra step: acoustic absorber upgrade

Once printed, fill the open blocks with flexible acoustic foam to upgrade Paragami into an acoustic absorber.

Watch the video tutorial ➜

09 / SHARP PYRAMID APEX

How to print pyramids with a sharper apex

Pyramid-shaped blocks can also be printed hollow, using the same procedure as for the open blocks (see 08).

Rotating the pyramids also works when you want a sharper apex. Printing a pyramid on its side often improves the sharpness of the apex, which can be difficult to perfect when printed in the default upright position.

Clemens Huijding

10 / LED UPGRADE

Light your Paragami from within

Paragami blocks can be printed hollow and lit from inside with LED strips. The dedicated article covers the grid spacing for 30 LED/m strips, print settings, tips, helpful links and free 3D models for building your own LED upgrade.

Read the LED upgrade guide ➜

11 / PREVIEW COLOUR COMBINATIONS IN PRUSASLICER

Test your colours before you print

You can preview different colour combinations in PrusaSlicer before generating the G-code. You don’t need a multimaterial printer to do this, because it is just a printer preset in the program.

1) Set your printer to a multimaterial printer preset (e.g. MK3S+MMU3). If this option isn’t available, add it via the Configuration Wizard.

2) Select all five Colour Group STLs (Colour 1–5) and drag & drop them into PrusaSlicer. Confirm the notification about a multimaterial print.

3) Assign a colour to each extruder by clicking the small colour square next to the Filament setting. Then assign each STL part to the corresponding extruder.

4) To see the entire artwork, either scale it down to fit the print bed, or open the Printer Settings tab and increase the Bed Shape size.

Watch the video tutorial ➜

For custom RGB colour palettes, see the full colour preview tutorial ➜

12 / MIRROR & CUT / TILE

Which designs can be tiled

You can mirror and tile the entire artwork, and you can also cut it to the ratio you need. Whether a design can be tiled depends on its edge blocks. There are three types:

1) Tileable Seamlessly. These are the best for tiling. All edge blocks have the same height, or they are vertical so their height does not matter. Examples: Coral Sponge 3.

Browse Tileable Seamlessly designs ➜ 


2) Tileable by Mirroring.
The blocks are vertical, but the blocks at the edges are not all the same height. These can be tiled if you mirror each tile (the whole piece). Example: High Tide.

Browse Tileable by Mirroring designs ➜ 


3) Not suitable for tiling. In these designs, the blocks extend from the base and are not perfectly vertical (90°) at the edges. Example: Windy Fur.

13 / PRINT ORIENTATION = SMOOTHER FINISH

Print the blocks vertically for smoother layer stepping

For designs such as Whipping Cream and Floating Fumes, print the blocks vertically to get smoother layer stepping.

This matters most when you scale the model down. At the native size, layer stepping is less noticeable, but on a smaller print it becomes more visible, so vertical orientation is essential.

The template has since been refined. Block divisions now follow the curvature and are organised by colour. Vertical positioning is still the key to the best result.

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